White Burgundy

Jasper Morris MW

The Club was treated to another masterclass in Burgundian wine by Club Vice-President and Burgundy expert, Jasper Morris MW. It was billed as ‘Fine White Burgundy, a Journey along the Cote d’Or’ but we travelled further afield than that, taking in Chablis and Macon as well. As usual, Jasper peppered his talk with memorable expressions and amusing anecdotes that made for a very enjoyable evening. He called chardonnay a bruising rugby player type of grape that doesn’t react well to pampering and refinement, unlike the other Burgundian grape, pinot noir. As for Burgundian people, he remarked that the women have lots of children, not necessarily with their husbands!

These are the wines that we tasted:

1)    Macon Chardonnay, Clos de la Crochette 2009 Heritiers Lafon £22.00
This is a bio-dynamic wine from a vineyard mentioned in monastery records in 1000 AD. It is barrel-fermented in oval barrels. Colour was lemon and its low acidity and tropical fruit nose and taste revealed its southern location. Crisp finish.

2)    Rully 1er Cru 2009, Jean-Yves Devevey £22.00
A Cote Chalonnaise wine with a deep lemon colour, apple nose and palate. A lean style with some fat and a long finish. Barrel-fermented, mainly in old oak. It spent two winters in barrel before being bottled.

3)    Pouilly Fuisse Clos des Quarts 2008 Olivier Merlin £23.50
Deep lemon colour, rich bouquet, a weighty and balanced organic wine, barrel-fermented in 30-40% new oak. Harvested late and saved by late September sunshine. Members thought this wine one of the top two this evening.

4)    Chablis Les Clos 2008 Grand Cru, Domaine Pinson Freres £42.00
Facing south-west, this is the most powerful and longest-lasting of the 7 grand crus. Mid-lemon colour, rich nose, acid palate. Fermented in stainless steel, then oak. Too young now, will reach its peak in 10 years.

5)    Meursault En La Barre 2007 Domaine Antoine Jobard £47.00
Wet wool and sulphur on the nose. Acidic but balanced on the palate. Crisp and fresh with full flavour from a difficult year. Good length. Drink in 8 to 10 years.

6)    Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2007, Marquis de Laguiche £55.00
Mid-lemon colour, restrained bouquet. Barrel-fermented with a little new oak. Light and balanced with long finish. Drink in 2-5 years.

7)    Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2007, Michel Bouzereau £65.00
Rich floral bouquet, lemon on the palate, balanced with very good length. A lovely wine, one of the top two this evening.

8)    Clos Blanc de Vougeot 2007, Domaine de la Vougeraie £59.00
Next door to Clos Vougeot where pinot noir is grown. Balanced and good length but lacking fruit on the palate. One of Jasper’s favourites. Will last 5+ years.

9)    Corton Charlemagne 2008 Grand Cru, Sylvain Loichet £99.00
Rich bouquet of lemon and grapefruit. Intense on the palate. Long finish. Too young to be drunk now, best in 4-5 years.

10)  Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or 1980 Domaine des Comtes Lafon £95.00
Deep lemon colour, rich bouquet from a cool year. Balanced with long finish.

PC

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