Richard Bampfield’s Fantastic Fizz-Olympics!
A volley of Champagne and other sparkling wine corks marked the opening of the Club’s 2012-2013 season.
Richard Bampfield MW, a star of the Club’s ‘Call my Bluff’ event in 2011, was back to kick off the season in style.
Eight sparkling wines – two from France but the rest spread between Germany, New Zealand, Italy, England, Brazil and Spain – were paired up and tasted blind. After each pairing we scored the wines and recorded the totals to judge Gold, Silver and Bronze on the night.
Gold went, narrowly, to France, with Tesco’s Premier Cru just edging top spot ahead of Ridgeview’s Fitzrovia Rosé. Bronze also went to France – Bichot’s classic Crémant de Bourgogne – and the wooden spoon at this particular contest went to Brazil’s Sparkling Miolo Rose.
But the fun was in the discussion on each table about the pairs. Which was preferred and why? Was there any autolysis? Were they balanced? Where did they come from? Scores – and opinions – were far from uniform and some wines divided the room right down the middle.
Richard started by setting out some of the criteria for assessing sparkling wine. It was, he said, the most difficult of all categories to judge for the wines are delicate, the differences often subtle and the build-up of acidity or sweetness and the order effects can quickly affect judgment. The size of the bubble (or bead) is becoming less important, suggested Richard. Small bubbles no longer means ‘better than big bubbles’. His criteria were balance, elegance and drinkability. The primary purpose of sparkling wine is to celebrate; is to prompt the second (and third) glass.
The first wine of the evening was from Germany, the Rudesheimer Burgweg Pinot Brut 2010 produced by Asbach-Kretshmar (£14.99 from The Winery in London). This Pinot Noir based wine is made in the Traditional Method with second fermentation in bottle yet, despite its price and pedigree, it was felt to be a bit short on length and somewhat simple with a slight peardrop note underlying the grapey fruit.
Its partner was Italian (rather a surprise to many of us). This was the Postumio Metodo Classico NV, Casteggio from the Oltrepo Pavese. Metodo Classico is not clearly defined and this wine rather divided opinion, some liking its refreshing, savoury flavour and honeyed nose which had a touch of autolysis. Not bone dry but well balanced and well-integrated and improving in the glass. Slightly cheaper - £14 – and again from The Winery.
Wine 3 had that immediately recognisable blackcurrant / cat’s pee hit of Sauvignon Blanc and, to few people’s surprise, turned out to be from New Zealand; the Lindauer Sparkling Sauvignon Brut from Waitrose at £9.99 or less (since it’s often on promotion). Some found it slightly cloying but in general the balance and finish was acceptable and it scored fairly well.
Wine 4 – the Wine Society’s Cava Sumarocca - was the cheapest on show during the evening at £7.50 and probably suffered by comparison with the Sauvignon Blanc. Made in the Traditional Method it had a touch of autolysis and though it was well balanced and very drinkable, it lacked that certain touch of excitement. So, a safe choice and a good value choice but not something to set the world alight.
The next pair were both from France. The first was an excellent Crémant de Bourgogne Brut from Albert Bichot. Around £12 but not yet on sale in the UK alas. It’s made with the classic champagne grapes – in Richard’s estimate probably 60/40 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Crémant used to mean less fizz than classic champagne, but a deal with the Champenois now means that it’s made in the Methode Traditionelle (i.e. Methode Champenoise).
The second of the pair was the consistently high-scoring Tesco 1er Cru Champagne. Marked at £19.99 it can often be found on promotion and, according to Richard, is always close to the top when he does ‘straight’ champagne tastings. And the Club clearly recognised this quality; rating its length, finesse, balance and excellent fruit.
The last pair were both rosé wines. The first, the Miolo Sparkling Rosé is probably the only Brazilian sparkling rosé to be found in the UK (£12 from Waitrose) and has a vivid pink colour which initially suggested to a number of members that it had its origins in the hotter areas of California. But, on the nose and in the mouth, it was more subtle and drier than expected. Yes, it came bottom of the poll – but it had its adherents.
The second rosé was far more subtle in every respect. Much paler pink, it was dry, complex and beautifully balanced. Just behind the Tesco Premier Cru and well ahead of the Crémant in bronze medal position, it was Ridgeview’s Fitzrovia Rosé Brut – made from 50% Chardonnay augmented by a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Such is the demand that it’s hard to get hold of but Richard suggested www.sparklingenglishwines.com if your local Waitrose is out of stock.
The evening finished with animated discussion over the remaining wine, with cheese and bread from Glutton’s Delicatessen. The conclusion? France might still hold the Gold medal for sparkling wine but Richard was the star of the night.
GH: 26/9/12