Modern Sicilian Wines with Filippo Zito

Tuesday 8 April 2025

 

Filippo Zito is the son of a retired wine maker, Leonardo Zito. Azienda Agricola Leonardo Zito is a family wine-making enterprise based in the village of Vita, Sicily. Established in 2014, the first red wines were sold commercially under the name of Borgoleo in 2018. A vineyard of Catarrello vines was acquired in 2022 and the wines from this vineyard were first released in 2023.

 

Wine 1. Leonardo Zito Glendi Mosso NV abv 11.5% £17.10

Made from Catarratto Lucido grapes grown on a steep south-facing vineyard called Contrada Chirchiaro. Soil is clay and limestone with marine fossils. Hand harvested. Stainless steel fermented with native yeasts. Bottled before fermentation completed and sealed with a crown cap to retain the carbon dioxide from the continued fermentation. Disgorged after 12 months on the lees and topped up for bottling. Described as ‘pet-nat’. The wine is named ‘glendi’ which means celebration in Greek, which links the wine to the ancient Greek heritage to the area where the vineyard is located. Lightly sparkling, fruity finish. Fresh acidity. Some aromas and flavours of lemon peel, apples, pears. Production is 2000 bottles.

 

Wine 2. Centopassi Giato Bianco 2024 abv 13.5% £16

A blend of Grillo (60%) and Catarratto (40%) grapes. This is a classic Sicilian blend with Grillo mainly grown in the west of Sicily. Pale in colour with floral and citrus notes on nose and palate. Some herbal notes. Very fresh acidity. Would go well with seafood or something like a tuna tartare.

 

Wine 3. Benanti Etna Bianco 2022 abv 12.5% £24

Etna D.O.C. Bianco
Grapes selected from vineyards located on the Eastern and Southern slopes of Mount Etna, which are particularly suited in terms of high elevation and abundant light/sunshine. Made from 100% Carricante, which is Etna’s noble white grape variety. The vines are grown on sandy, volcanic soils that are rich in minerals, with sub-acid reaction. Plants range in age from 20 to 60 years and are trained in both “alberello” (head-trained bush) and spurred cordon systems, with densities of 6,000 to 7,000 vinestocks per hectare and yields of 7,000 to 8,000 kg/ha. Vineyards vary in elevation from 700 m (c. 2,300 ft) to 950 m (c. 3,100 ft) a.s.l. The climate type ranges from high hill to mountain, with a humid and rainy cooler season, high ventilation and a significant diurnal range.The grapes are harvested by hand around mid-October, de-stemmed and soft-pressed. Fermentation lasts 12 days and takes place in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature of 18°C, with the aid of Benanti’s own indigenous yeast, which was selected from local vineyards through years of research and experimentation in the cellar. The wine then matures in stainless steel on the fine lees for a while and then refines in the bottle for 2-3 months. The wine has a pale yellow colour, with bright greenish tints. The nose is intense and delicate with hints of apple. The palate is dry and mineral with pleasant acidity and salinity, persistent and harmonious. Serving temperature: 10 – 12°C. Pairs well with fish and seafood.

 

Wine 4. Vino Lauria Frappato Rose 2023 abv 12% £16.50

Made by a third generation wine maker (Vito Lauria) and from a vineyard near Trapani in the far west of Sicily. The vineyard is biodynamic and the wine made using natural yeasts with minimal intervention. Somewhat copper/orange colour. Cherry and strawberry on the nose. Somewhat earthy and pungent perhaps due to some ageing on the lees. Long smooth finish with lots of red fruit.

Wine 5. Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG 2023 abv 14% £24

The only DOCG in Sicily, first awarded this status in 2005. A 50/50 blend of Frapatto and Nero d’Avola. Gulfi are renowned for their commitment to organic viticulture and indigenous Sicilian grape varieties. Aged in stainless steel and neutral oak, deep red in colour, fresh and lively nose and flavours of spice, red cherries and raspberries (cerasuolo means cherry) with soft tannins, balanced acidity, some salinity and a smooth, elegant and long finish. Would go well with caponata, grilled tuna, or pasta alla Norma.

Wine 6. Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2022 abv 14.5% £26.50

DOC Etna Rosso

Made from 100% Nero (aka Nerello) Mascalese grapes (a native Sicilian grape variety believed to be a cross of Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir) and grown at about 800m on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. Manual harvesting in late September. Vinification involves, after crushing and destemming, light pressing and a maceration of approximately 18 days. Spends 3 months in large fine grain oak casks with a light toast. Strawberry, sour cherry and some earthy notes on nose and palate with the hints of salinity that are typical of Etna wines. Bright acidity.

 

Wine 7. Cantine Gulino Drus Nero d’Avola 2021 abv 14% £18

Siracusa DOC

From the south-east of Sicily. The name Drus derives from the Greek and means “oak”. A ruby red, dry red wine produced from 100% Nero d’Avola vines – which are somewhat subject to mildew. Not yet biologically certified but working towards it. 12 months in Allier oak barrels, giving it a soft texture and somewhat velvety tannins. On the nose and palate some dry cherry, blackberry notes with hints of herbs, vanilla and liquorice.

 

Wine 8. Leonardo Zito Borgoleo Syrah, Magnum, 2020 abv 14.5% £49

From a single vineyard near Trapani, about 48m above sea level. Double Guyot trained vines, low yielding and hand harvested and sorted. Stainless steel fermented using native yeasts, 15% whole bunch fermented. 50% of the wine is aged for one year in French oak barriques, a small percentage of which are new. The rest is aged in stainless steel. Unfined and unfiltered, low sulphites. Production 1800 bottles. Deep purple in colour. On the nose somewhat smoky and spicy. Evident tannins, black cherries and spice on palate with good balancing acidity. Will age.

 

Wine 9. Cantine Gulino Jaraya Moscato Passito 2022 abv 14% £22.50

Siracusa Passito DOC

A dessert wine made from 100% white Moscato grapes. Produced in Contrada Fanuse, Syracuse. Harvested at the end of August with the grapes dried on reed mats. Grapes are de-stemmed pre maceration, with gentle pressing. Bottled in January, aged for 6 months in bottle. Residual sugar approx. 180g/l. Will keep for about 5 years after bottling. Intense golden colour with some copper notes. On the palate ripe apricots, dried figs and cloves, some candied fruits.

 

HRE 25.6.25

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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