Approximately 50 OWC members gathered at the Cherwell Boathouse Marquee on a mild winter evening for a wonderful ‘Greek odyssey’ tasting of some of the best in Greek wines. Our speaker, Czech born MW Lenka Sedlackova, who now works at Bancroft wines, is on the Greek wines judging panels for both Decanter and the recently established 50 Best Greek Wines Award.
In her introduction, Lenka gave us a brief overview of wine production in Greece and some of the current trends highlighting the fact that quality now takes precedence over quantity and that ‘Greek wines have come a long way from the days of cheap yellow overly sweet Retsina’. All of us were astounded to learn that Greece has up to 300 different grape varieties and 14,000 wineries.
The wines we tasted, all from indigenous grape varieties, thus underlining the move away from international varieties, ranged from an astounding dry Assyrtiko produced on the island of Santorini, ‘a Jurassic park of 4 to 500 year old vines’, via a Limniona red, ‘the Greek Beaujolais’, and an ‘ode to French wine’ made from Agiorgitiko grapes, to a resurgent and newly fashionable dry Assyrtiko Retsina made using a ‘tea bag of resin’.
During our wanderings we visited the islands, not only of Santorini, but also of Naxos, Crete and Cyprus learning that island wines, most of which are white and made from very old phylloxera-free grapes in boutique wineries, are very much ‘on trend’. Indeed, to the surprise of many we learnt that most wine produced in Greece is white. To sample the reds, we paid a visit to the mainland, calling in on Mt Olympus along the way.
Throughout the evening, to accompany the wines we enjoyed Greek themed snacks and nibbles for which many thanks must go to Ali and the OWC team.
The successful tasting certainly opened our eyes to the quality wines that Greece has to offer and provoked many interesting questions. Having only tasted 7 of the multitude of grape varieties on offer in Greece, no doubt many OWC members will now be booking holidays there to continue the odyssey of discovery.
1. Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko 2022 - 14%
Estate Argyros was established on the island of Santorini in 1903. It is now run by Matthew Argyros, the fourth
generation of the family to do so although the family has been involved in grape growing on Santorini for 200 years. The cutting-edge Estate Argyros Winery, located in Episkopi, was established in 2015, and has 120 hectares of vines averaging 70 years old with some at over 200 years. The vineyards boast ungrafted, phylloxera-safe, original rootstock. The vines are basket-pruned (unfortunately now becoming a dying art), and no irrigation is used. Organic methods are applied so there are no pesticides, and ploughing is done using mules.
This dry Assyrtiko is the most important bottling of the estate. Made from grapes hand-harvested in the early morning from volcanic soils, in top quality areas of the island, mainly Messaria, Karterados, Pyrgos, Megalochori and Akrotiri. These vines, averaging 100-120 years old, produce completely dry, crisp wine with high natural acid. Fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures for three weeks and then aged for two/three months on fine lees.
Crystal yellow in colour with flavours of citrus fruits, lemongrass and stone, with a long clean finish and a distinct saline character. Can be enjoyed immediately, though may continue to develop for at least a decade. It is an excellent accompaniment to seafood and in particular shellfish, oysters, grilled seabream, or bass.
Data sheet for the 2020 vintage: https://estateargyros.com/media/content/files/Fiche_Technique_Estate_Argyros_Assyrtiko_Santorini_2020.pdf
Winery website: https://estateargyros.com
2. Ekhô White, Naxos 2021 - 13%
Founded by oenologist Lefteris Anagnostou, the Ekho [a connection with the past] wines project is a new venture that deals with old vines from areas of historical significance such as the island of Naxos, considered to be the birthplace of Dionysus, the god of wine. Grapes from selected single plots are bought from contracted growers. For the time being vinification takes place outside the island, but there are plans to start a winemaking installation.
See website of Greek MW Yiannis Karakasis: https://www.karakasis.mw/wine-revelations-ekho-project-wines-made-old-vines-found-areas-are-historically-significant
The Aidani and Potamisi grapes for this field blend (which also includes unknown varieties such as Karabraim), are sourced from a high altitude, single vineyard plot on the foothills of Mt Za. Exclusively old vines of more than 150 years old, these low yielding, ungrafted bush vines are planted on spectacular rocky and clay terraces.
Aidani grape: https://winesofgreece.org/varieties/aidani/
Potamisi grape: https://glossary.wein.plus/potamissi
Vinification in stainless steel is initiated with ambient yeast for aromatic complexity followed by 10 months of lees ageing. 1010 bottles of the 2021 were produced and is Anagnostou’s first vintage.
This dry wine displays herbal notes on the nose with sweet aromas of apricots. On the palate, lemon verbena, white peach and grapefruit combined with ginger and flinty. The crisp acidity balances perfectly with the wine’s salty and tangy profile.
Drink from now to 2033.
3. Oenops Wines, Vidiano, 2022 - 13%
Oenops was founded in 2015 by winemaker Nikos Karatzas, who operating as a négociant produces a range of distinctive wines from a newly established state-of-the-art winery.
The Vidiano grapes come from old vineyards at 300 metres elevation in the mountainous area of Heraklion in Crete. (The island produces 12% of all Greek wine). At this altitude the diurnal temperature differences influence the vines. The old vines produce low yields of concentrated fruit. The vines are Double Cordon trained and are cultivated ecologically with minimal spraying. The grapes are hand-harvested; picked during the cool of the night and transported by a refrigerated truck, via a ferry, to the winery.
Slow spontaneous fermentation is allowed to occur using wild yeasts, in four different types of vessels, made from four different elements: clay amphorae, concrete tanks, 600-litre large barrels and stainless-steel tanks. The resulting wine is thus imbued with complexity and depth. No less than 18 different vinifications take place. Once fermentation was complete, the wine was aged for six to nine months in amphorae and concrete tanks, in order to preserve the purity of fruit, with a small percentage in old, large barrels. The wine was bottled unfiltered to retain its purity and elegance.
A bright, silver-gold colour, the wine displays abundant citrus notes and white floral, herbal and mineral overtones. Creamy and layered with a lively freshness and flavours of stone fruit, lime and subtle spice. A great match for fish, oysters or Asian cuisine. Also accompanies a variety of cheeses. Drink now to 2026.
NB. Jancis R gave a previous vintage 17 points.
4. Makarounas Vineyards, Xynisteri, 2022 – 12.5%
Makarounas Winery is a family organic boutique winery located in the village of Letymbou, 14 kilometres east of the city of Pafos, on the west coast of Cyprus, a region with a long tradition in vine growing. Four generations of the Makarounas family have been involved in viticulture. Theodoros Makarounas started the winery in 2016, strongly adopting the principle that good wine is made in the vineyard; thus, particular attention is paid to the notion of terroir. It is the only winery in Cyprus that sources grapes solely from their privately-owned vineyards. These cover 25 hectares of land, located at an altitude of 400 - 600 metres above sea level. There is a strong Mediterranean influence here but also considerable rainfall. The combination of surrounding hills, the crystal gypsum, limestone and quartz rich soils, along with the uninterrupted exposure to the winds of the valley, are moderating factors in the local microclimate.
This dry white wine is from 100% Xynisteri grapes sourced from ungrafted 30 to 35-year-old bush vines at 400-450m altitude.
Xynisteri grape: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xynisteri
NB. Blended with the Mavro grape, Xynisteri contributes to the renowned Commandaria (OWC Wine Challenge 2023 question 4), dessert wine.
Produced by spontaneous fermentation from natural yeasts in steel tanks. It is then aged on the lees for 3-6 months, with twice weekly bâtonnage.
Light gold in colour with hints of minerality, lemon zest, lemon flesh and dried lemon on the nose. Well balanced acidity and freshness on the palate with notes of pear, green apple, apricot and stone fruits. An ideal pairing for richer and more oily vegetable and poultry dishes, as well as seafood such as calamari.
At the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards the 2021 vintage of this wine gained a silver medal with 90 points.
Winery website: https://www.makarounaswinery.com/author/makarounaswinery_tewasf/
5. Dougos Winery, Meth`Imon "L" Limniona, 2021 - 13%
The Dougos Winery, founded in 1991, is located at the foot of Mt Olympus, in the Tempi valley and is part of the PDO Rapsani, in the Thessaly region. The vineyards are at an altitude of 550-800 m on the north-east Olympus slopes, in Prosilia and Tourtoura. The soil consists mainly of iron-rich schist with a sandy-clay sub soil. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of irrigation, at low yields, and are certified organic. The main varieties cultivated are the indigenous Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Krasato, Stavroto, and Limniona.
The rare Limniona grape, from which this wine is made, is local to Thessaly. After maceration, the grape must is fermented in open-topped tanks, then the wine is aged in a combination of old lightly toasted French and American oak casks for 8 months prior to bottling.
Limniona grape: https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-2240-limniona
The resulting wine is medium ruby coloured. On the nose, it is highly perfumed and aromatically rich offering roses, dark cherries, and herbal undertones. Oak is undetectable and the purity of fruit shines through. Elegant on the palate with a high level of freshness and finely textured chewy tannins on the long finish. Will accompany roast leg of lamb,
mild chicken karahi (kadai chicken), grilled Halloumi.
Drink up to 2033.
Winery website: https://dougos.gr/welcome/
6. Gaia Estate, Nemea 2020 – 14.5%
Gaia Wines was founded in 1994, and their winery in the Nemea P.D.O. appellation, the largest wine-growing zone in Greece, was built in 1997 in Koutsi (Peloponnese peninsula). The vineyard ranges from 250m to 850m in altitude with a wide variety of soils and climatic characteristics.
Made from 100% Agiorgitiko grapes, considered to be the Greek Grenache, cultivated from 40-year-old vines grown at an altitude of 550 metres on soils with a layer of approximately 75cm of clay over a bed of limestone. Yields are 45 to 48 hectolitres per hectare. The grapes are manually harvested then cold soaked and macerated for approximately 20 days. Fermentation took place with selected yeasts in traditional oak fermenters at 22 to 28°C. The wine went through 100% malolactic conversion, which was followed by 18 to 20 months’ maturation in mostly new French oak casks. The wine was bottled without fining or filtration.
The resulting wine displays a deep red-black colour. On the nose it has a complex and intensely aromatic profile with hints of fruit, wood, vanilla and carnation. On the palate it delivers depth and complexity with concentrated black and red fruits, vanilla, black pepper and violet enveloped in powerful, yet smooth tannins. A rich, full bodied and rounded wine with a long finish. Matches well with steak, roast beef or casseroles. The wine has aging potential will continue to evolve for up to 20 years. It is recommended to open and decant Gaia Estate at least half an hour before tasting.
Winery website: https://gaiawines.gr/en/
7. Alpha Estate, Ecosystem Xinomavro Reserve Vielles Vignes Single Block Barba Yannis 2020, Amyndeo - 14%
The 220-hectare vineyard of the Alpha Estate is located in the northwest part of Greece, on a plateau that ranges from 620 to 710 metres in altitude in the Amyndeon viticultural region. The vineyards are situated on gentle slopes with a north-westerly exposure. The local climate is semi-continental with a high diurnal range frequently observed during the summer. The soils are sandy-clay loam with a limestone subsoil. The Estate was founded in 1997 by the viticulturist Makis Mavridis and Bordeaux trained oenologist Angelos Iatridis. In the present day, Emorfili Mavridou and Angeliki Iatridou continue the founders’ traditions of eco-friendly growing practices underlined by sustainable viticulture and winemaking.
The Xinomavro Reserve Vieilles Vignes is made from 100% Xinomavro grapes from vines planted in 1919. The vines are 100% ungrafted, phylloxera-free Gobelet (bush) vines. Planted at a density of 2,600 vines per hectare, they yield just 25hl/ha of concentrated juice.
Xinomavro grape: https://winesofgreece.org/varieties/xinomavro/
After harvest at the coolest hours of the day the grapes are destemmed, followed by a light (gravity) crushing and cold soak with skin contact. Fermentation is by indigenous yeasts at gradually increasing temperatures. The wine is aged on the lees for 18 months with regular bâtonnage, followed by 24 months aging in new Allie - Jupilles French oak casks. A minimum 12 months further aging in bottle takes place before release. Bottled without fining and filtration.
The colour is bright dark ruby with a complex nose and typical bouquet of sundried tomatoes, smoky black fruits, strawberries, dark cherries, liquorice and spices.
On the palate it is full bodied with rich fruit depth, blackberries, plums, herbaceous hints and oak. Solid, velvety tannins and long aftertaste with persistent aromas.
A perfect match with juicy red barbecued meats, roasted lamb, spicy sausages, red baked peppers in olive oil, rabbit stew, light spicy full body cheeses.
Drink: now - 2036
Winery website: https://alpha-estate.com/
8. Troupis Winery, Assyrtiko Retsina 2022, Mantinia – 12.5%
The boutique Troupis Winery, founded in 2010, is situated in the centre of the Mantinea Plateau in the Fteri wine region (Peloponnese peninsula). Their vineyards cover 7 hectares at 650m altitude. Assyrtiko vines comprise 1 hectare and are thought to be the sole planting in Mantinea.
The grape juice is fermented in two parts, one in concrete eggs and the other in old barrels. One portion is infused with small amounts of Aleppo pine resin and then the two parts are blended together. Made without the addition of additives, fining or filtration, this Assyrtiko Retsina wine has a bright, golden hue. On the nose the wine shows apricot blossoms and a slight scent of tangerine coexisting with pine, herbal, thyme, ginger, mastic, chamomile, and floral notes. On the palate, there is a refreshing, slightly acidic tang with resin, ginger, tangerine, and grapefruit notes. Think ginger beer, but wine. It has a long finish.
A good accompaniment to grilled fish and fried seafood, grilled vegetables, spicy Asian cuisine dishes, sushi and traditional Greek food.
Winery website: https://www.troupiswinery.gr/en/
Chris Blakey.
21/02/2024.