Members were delighted to welcome Christelle Guibert, Director of Tastings at Decanter, to a tasting befitting the end of the OWC events calendar after another successful year. Christelle’s visit was particularly timely, following announcement of the Decanter Trophy award-winners at a glittering ceremony in London on 24 June.
Christelle, whose job involves organising the Decanter Fine Wine Encounters series of Tastings as well as the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Asia Wine Awards, explained how the World Wine Awards work. The competition started in 2004, with only 4,000 entries. Ten years later, the number of entries has risen to 15,000. Wines are organised by country and style, and a distinguished panel of judges comprises MWs, senior wine buyers, wine writers, leading sommeliers and other wine experts – all with in-depth, specialist knowledge of the areas they are judging. All wines are tasted blind in flights of 12 by a team of 4 judges, and a full 8–10 minutes are allocated to each wine. Gold and silver award-winners are then re-tasted by a regional chair, and gold medal winners are then tasted again before regional trophies, e.g. for Chablis, are awarded. Finally, some two weeks later, the international trophies are awarded by a panel of judges comprising Steven Spurrier, Gerard Basset MW and other luminaries of the wine world. In total 454 gold medals, 125 regional trophies and 33 international trophies were awarded in 2014.
The wines chosen by Christelle for this OWC Tasting are all Gold Medal winners, and some of them also Regional or International Trophy winners. She knows the wines personally, having visited the wineries and met the winemakers, and as well as being delightful examples each has its own fascinating background story.
- Loxarel 109 2002 11.5% ABV
This wine is produced by winemaker Josep Mitjans on a small organic and biodynamic estate outside Barcelona where half the vineyards are situated on flat land around the winery and half at 700-800 metres altitude. The winery is very basic, and the land is roamed by the estate’s animals (goats in the vineyards de-leaf the vines). The wine cannot be called Cava because it is not made by the traditional method. There is no disgorgement and the lees are not removed from the wine – but these are very complex and provide protection against oxidation. When it is released, bottles are sold wrapped in paper to conceal the sediment but the wine is still amazingly fresh. Deep gold in colour it has notes of citrus overlaid with a yeasty, smoky, savoury quality and a full, elegant body. On the palate apples and ripe pears combine with spice and rich, complex minerality. Described by two of the Spanish MWs judging this category as “Fascinating and original…… savoury tertiary edge….. very quirky but fabulous!” A blend of 60% Chardonnay with 40% Pinot Noir, the wine was introduced to the UK market only 2 years ago. Price: £70. It has been awarded a DWWA Gold Medal for 2 years in succession, and won a Regional Trophy last year for the same vintage.
- Sugrue Pierre Brut 2011 12% ABV
This sparkling wine is made by Dermot Sugrue, a former winemaker at Nyetimber who now leads the winemaking team at the Wiston Estate in West Sussex. Dermot hails originally from Ireland and, after working in Champagne and for prestigious wineries in Bordeaux, studied oenology at Plumpton College before joining Nyetimber. He has planted his own small vineyard at Storrington, and as he works to get production of his own wines underway he has been trading his winemaking expertise for grapes from local winegrowers to produce Sugrue Pierre Brut. Another blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, this wine is very different in style from the Loxarel. After pressing in a special press that protects against oxidation (the only one in England, and one of only 4 similar presses outside Champagne), a small proportion of the wine is fermented in oak and the rest undergoes full malolactic fermentation before spending 3 years on the lees. It is bottled without filtration, with a dosage of 8 g/l. Much paler in colour than the Loxarel, this has fresh citrus aromas and appley, yeasty, biscuit flavours and well-integrated oak. Creamy and rich, it has fine balancing acidity. Alas no wine was produced after the disastrous 2012 vintage, so only 1000 bottles of this wine remain available until the 2013 vintage is released. Price: £35 direct from Estate. Gold Medal and Regional Trophy (UK Sparkling over £15) winner in 2014.
- Les Vignerons du Pallet Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Le Pallet 2009 12% ABV
Muscadet has been in the doldrums in recent years. 30 years ago it was on every wine list, but a combination of over-production, difficult climate conditions and dubious quality - and the arrival of New World wines - contributed to its decline in the 90s, when a lot of producers went out of business. But Muscadet is changing in a good way. 75% is still sold via négociants, but there are a few producers making some truly remarkable terroir-driven wines. In the early 2000s, producers started examining the structure of terroir and soil. Core sampling identified 9 different ‘crus’, of which 3 have been certified (cru status is defined by age of vines (30+ years), low yields, ageing sur lie (18-24 months) and a panel of judges that determines when the wine is ready for bottling) – and Pallet is one of these. The ‘crus’ comprise only 1% of total Muscadet production, but represent the highest quality. Muscadet’s trademark is the ageing process, whereby the wine is left for long periods on the lees, deriving intensity of flavour and complexity from the process. This wine shows serious complexity, with a nose of light buttery notes and citrus freshness. Intense mineral characters on the palate combine with great depth of apple and quince fruit and hints of toast. One of the judges, wine writer Jim Budd, describes the wine as “almost Burgundian on the nose…. great depth….. seriously impressive for the price”. No UK distribution as yet. Est retail price: £13-£14. Gold Medal and Regional Trophy (White Loire under £15) winner in 2014.
- Tyrrell’s Vat1 Semillon Hunter Valley 2005 11.2% ABV
Hunter Valley Semillon is a bit of a Trade secret, and very difficult to find. It has a unique style that is positively revered by food lovers: the young wine is perfect with oysters, and the older wine is an excellent partner for mature cheeses. Unoaked, this wine is bone-dry in style and very aromatic, with high acidity – especially when young. It develops rich, limey, minerally, complex characters, and represents exceptional value (recent vintages cost £15-£18). The Hunter Valley is a hot and humid region that is surprisingly favourable to the Semillon grape. Tyrrells pick very carefully – tasting and determining flavour profiles with great rigour and judging the very precise moment at which grapes are ready for harvest. Wines are released after prolonged ageing (80,000 cases are currently residing in cellar). Cool fermented and completely unoaked, the wine is complex and perfumed on the nose, with lemon zest and spice leading to a rich, intense palate of citrus fruits, apple and toast. It displays lovely developed flavours with a lingering finish and a hint of honey at the end. Price: £35. Gold medal winner in 2014.
- Amalaya Blanco de Corte, Calchaqui, Salta 2013 13.5% ABV
From vineyards in Colomé situated at 4000 metres above sea level – the highest in the world, enjoying 300 days of sunshine per year. The name Amalaya means ‘Hope for a Miracle’, and the 75 hectares of vineyards were planted in this remote area by a Burgundian winemaker who fell in love with the region. Vines are cultivated organically and biodynamically, and the whole village is involved with production of the wine. It is a blend of 85% Torrontes with 15% Riesling - Riesling is very rare in Argentina, but it thrives in Colomé due to the altitude and cold nights. The wine has an exceptional freshness and purity of fruit, and a floral, limey, slightly spicy quality on nose and palate. Expressive and elegant, with hints of peach, and gooseberry and fine, refreshing acidity, it shows great complexity for such a young wine. A versatile food wine with great depth of flavour. Price: £9.99. Gold medal winner in 2014.
- Casa Marin Cipreses Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Lo Abarca, San Antonio 2013 13.5% ABV
Chile is on a mission to promote its Sauvignon Blanc for its high quality - aiming to achieve the same reputation as New Zealand for wines made from the Sauvignon grape. The Casa Marin winery was founded in 2000 in the San Antonio Valley, 4km from the Pacific, by pioneering female winemaker Maria Luz Marin. Her Lo Abarca vineyard benefits from a cool and cloudy climate that is ideal for the cultivation of Sauvignon Blanc. Yields are low, and against the odds her efforts have produced some very fine wines. This example shows elegant aromas of asparagus, gooseberry and blackcurrant leaf. After an initial attack of crisp, high acidity, the palate shows a rich and smooth texture with complex minerality and spice and a long, creamy, citrus finish. Judge Peter Richards MW describes the wine as having “great energy….really great value and very drinkable”. Price: £18-£20. Gold Medal and Regional Trophy (Chilean Sauvignon Blanc over £15) winner in 2014.
- Yalumba Y Series Viognier, South Australia 2013 13.5% ABV
The Yalumba Y Series of varietal wines is an expression of Yalumba, Australia's oldest family-owned winery. These are fresh and flavoursome fruit-driven wine styles of quality and consistency, highlighting the true regional character of South Australia's most renowned viticultural areas. Yalumba is a pioneer in developing Viognier, a grape with origins in the Rhône, and the oldest commercial producer of Viognier in the New World. It is a challenging grape – unpredictable, difficult to grow, low-yielding and always surprising! Made with grapes sourced from a number of different regions in South Australia, this wine sees some oak (large old barrels), and is classic in style. The nose shows aromas of exotic fruits – apricot, peach and mango plus hints of white flowers – and the palate combines flavours of the same fruits, together with figs and pineapple and a full, complex, rich smoothness. Michael Hill-Smith MW calls the wine “a model of elegance and restraint….. polished with lovely depth and freshness….. what a nice drink!”. Price: £12.99. Gold Medal winner in 2014.
- La Ina Fino Sherry NV 15% ABV
La Ina Fino is one of Spain's most iconic brands of Fino Sherry. Originally produced by Domecq, one of the oldest bodegas in Jerez, the La Ina solera was purchased by Lustau, another bodega known for its high quality, small batch sherries, in the mid-2000s. Sherry is hugely underrated, especially the dusky, nutty bone-dry styles with their huge depth of aromas and flavours that make them such an ideal palate cleanser. This wine is from a single vineyard, typically aged in American oak under flor in a solera system that dates back to 1919. 60,000 bottles of La Ina are produced annually, and this is benchmark fino with notes of apple, salt, and blanched nuts. Fresh and bright, with inviting aromas of almonds and a wonderful white floral character lead on to a salty, intense and tangy palate with beautiful lemony freshness, and a slightly rustic edge on the finish. Perfect for drinking with olives, almonds and cured ham. Price: £13.79. Gold Medal and International Trophy (Dry Fortified under £15) winner in 2014.
- David Reynaud, Georges Reynaud Crozes-Hermitage 2012 13% ABV
David is a fifth generation winemaker who studied oenology in the Rhône, at Orange. The wine derives from a 13 hectare vineyard in the Hermitage foothills, where the age of the vines is between 20 and 30 years. David took over the Estate in 2000, and made some dramatic changes, ending a contract with a local cooperative in 2003 and converting first to organic viticulture in 2005, and then to biodynamic in 2009. Production has increased from 17,000 bottles to 100,000 bottles. A highly talented winemaker, David remains a charming and modest man who believes in following his passion and ‘taking risks while you’re young’. This top of the range wine is made from 100% Syrah and is the product of old vines, low yields and fermentation in egg fermenters. Deep in colour, it has a fresh perfume of red berries and cherries. The palate is full, with tremendous depth of fruit and spice, and some savoury notes, and the finish is long with supple tannins, rich fruit and plenty of juicy acidity. Price: £20-£21. Gold Medal winner in 2014.
- Zorzal Field Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Gualtallary, Tupungato 2011 14.5% ABV
The Zorzal winery was founded in 2008 in the cool Gualtallary region of Mendoza, situated at 1350 metres and adjacent to Tupungato in the foothills of the Andes. With Canadian backing, the Zorzal project is managed by the Michelini brothers – 3 talented winemakers with a background in consultancy whose aim is to produce unique, distinctive wines that truly represent the soils, terroir and the people of the region. This wine is deep ruby-red in colour with a delightful nose, full of zest and vibrancy and with both black berry and savoury notes. On the palate, persistent blackcurrant flavours combine with mint and spice, a suggestion of gaminess and a rich, full body. With textured tannins and superb structure, the wine has plenty of juicy acidity and tremendous depth of flavour. Price: £35. Gold Medal and Regional Trophy (Argentinian Red Blend over £15) in 2014.
- Zorzal Eggo, Tupungato 2012 14.5% ABV
The Zorzal winery is built on 4 levels - gravity being a prevailing element in the winemaking process. This state-of-the-art production facility includes new tanks, sophisticated temperature control and lots of egg-shaped fermentation vats. The advantage of these oval shaped concrete vats is the wine remains in a constant state of movement and the lees always remain in suspension, which, together with the cool temperature of the egg, produces wines with particular purity of fruit and a bright, vibrant character. The wine is a blend of 90% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows bright fruit on the nose with a lovely minerality. The palate has an alluring chalky-mineral scent, with an abundance of rich, dark chocolatey fruits. Medium to full-bodied with vibrant acidity and tannins, beautiful balance and a long, fresh finish. Price: £45. Gold Medal winner in 2014.
After an impressive Tasting, full of choice observations and insights into little-known or up-and-coming wine regions, members were asked to vote for their favourite wines of the evening. Surprisingly, the winners were both Argentinian: Amalaya Blanco de Corte and Zorzal Field Blend Cabernet Sauvignon. Tim Cadel’s brilliant, anecdotal and witty vote of thanks left members helpless with laughter - and with great appreciation for a vibrant and memorable evening. A much-amused Christelle departed at speed to catch a train back to London for her early flight to another glorious winemaking region the following day. We hope to welcome her back soon.
CEB