The Oxford Wine Club tasting on 21 January was an evening of bluff and double-bluff. Jonathan Pedley's insistence that (practically) all the wines we tasted were from Morrison's had to be weighed against Michael Palij's assertion that they were (practically) all from his own cellar or those of his most illustrious wine-maker friends, whilst Richard Bampfield played the trust me I'm a trustworthy chap game (to great effect).
Yes, it was round 3 of the Club's occasional Call My Bluff evenings. As always there were tricky decisions to be made. Do you put your faith in psychology or in tasting skills?
Do you put your trust in your own tasting skills or do you rely the (apparently) most trustworthy panellist or the less trustworthy?
This well-attended event was in aid of 'Thinking of Oscar' a charity set up by member David Cole and his wife Hannah in memory of their infant son who died last year. The charity (www.thinkingofoscar.com) raises funds to support children in hospital. Nine tables of six members did battle with mixed enthusiasm, confidence and confusion.
After an opening glass of Oddbin's Cremant de Bourgogne we started on the six wines that the panel had brought. First up was the Richard's choice of Chapel Down Bacchus Reserve. To Jonathan this was simply 'a disgrace'. The product, he confidently asserted, of Morrison's of Woking, this was a £5 monstrosity from Australia. He lamented how far this 'once great wine country' had been 'degraded' in the pursuit of profit. Michael took a rather different line. With equal confidence he assured us this was a craft Albarino from his friend Juan, King of Cambreros (one of the rare and delicious finds of his trusty Spanish associates). Taste the Atlantic he told us. That salinity is a mark of distinction. Richard too noted that salinity, along with a touch of sweatiness, and a hint of cat's pee. But, in his opinion, this saline note came not from the Atlantic but the Channel. It was an English Bacchus. Could we not taste the hedgerows of Kent? As it turned out, almost all of us could - or perhaps we just believed Richard.
The next two wines were not so easy. Michael had brought magnums of La Monacesca 2009 from Verdicchio. Jonathan chose to extemporise on the back label, written, so he told us, in a language distantly related to English. The 'cheeky little pig' (for such was the brand) was a perfect expression of Morrison's personality with its glints of a 'curly tail behind' and its expression of ripe citrus fruit. Drink, if you really must, within two days of opening. He rested his case. Michael eulogised over 'unsung heroes', 'fabled Matelica', an 'unoaked' vision of delight that had single-handedly rescued the reputation of Verdicchio. Alas, only one table believed him. Once again Richard won the bluffing stakes. In his version of the world this was an over-fat Pinot Grigio (of which he had expected a 'little more'). From New Zealand, so he said, this was a Wine Challenge winner characterised by all-round blandness, no sense of place and no distinctive aromas. Three tables got this one; only two the next (and no-one got both right).
Wine no 3 was Jonathan's 'pick'. Jonathan levelled with us. This really was Morrison's best (or worst). This 'wine-based drink' whose ingredients included milk, was denounced by Jonathan as £3.49 'swill' (was he speaking the truth or channelling his late 'cheeky little pig'?). It was, he said one of the reasons why Morrison's had but lately fired their CEO, Dalton Phillips. Michael agreed that it was an abomination but confused his listeners with references to obscure Canadian customs ('sex in a canoe' anyone?), thousands of containers launched on ungrateful world and yet more sex - in the City this time. It was, he said, one of his own wines - a Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio. Worryingly, many believed him. Richard's version of events won fans too. He went further, suggesting the only bit with any flavour was the bit that wasn't wine. This was a wine of La Mancha, Euro-plonk made from Airen, a varietal so neutral that he was shocked some now dare to acknowledge it on the back label.
With wine no 4 we moved into the reds. This was the second of Jonathan's own picks, an Argentinean Bonarda. Richard was the first to attempt to persuade us of another version of reality. It was, he said, a Zweigelt; honest, rounded, nicely balanced, a touch of character from the oak. He quoted Jancis' approval of Zweigelt, lamented that if only the good doctor Zweigelt (the creator of this cross in the 1920s) had had a more euphonious name (Dr Pinot Noir perhaps?) then it would be one of the world's go-to grapes. Michael reverted to Canada. No sex and no moose but mounties riding side-saddle (or was it the Queen?). This was a Canadian Cabernet Franc from the Niagara Falls. The region may be better known for late harvest wines but this tasty red was an OK drop by anyone's standards. Jonathan launched - for reasons that were not entirely clear - into Winterreise but accepted this wine was more Garry Glitter than Goethe. He invoked Top Gear and girls in vineyards but did convey the essential information that this was a very reasonably priced Bonarda - and many people quite correctly believed him.
Wine no 5 was a Quinta Sardonia 2009 from Castilia y Leon that Michael produced. For Richard this was a modern style St Emilion from a warm year, 2009. He pointed to the pencil lead notes (indicating a touch of Cab Franc) and the high alcohol (Merlot of course). A bit too big and brawny for classic Bordeaux but bags of pleasure and drinking very nicely just now. Michael agreed this was 2009 but pointed to the depth of colour and the 'expensive' aromas to support this claim it was a distinguished wine made mainly from old Tempranillo vines by the man who had created Pingus. Spain's best value red, he asserted. A wine he was proud to be associated with. But he failed to convince alas. Jonathan's take on the wine took us to the New World, Ridge Geyserville to be precise. This was a field blend with 74% Zin and seasonings from various other trendy grapes. He dropped the name of Paul Draper. He even conceded that this was not one of Morrison's offerings... That clearly clinched it for the (misled) audience bought his story hook, line and sinker.
The last wine of the night was Richard's Chateau Taillefer 2009, a Bordeaux blend from Pomerol. Richard talked of tasting railway lines (though it was unclear if this was more evident in the days of steam), of Dubordieu, of freshness and of balance. For Michael this was 'a bit confusing'. He would put us straight. Yes, it was 2009, no it was not from Bordeaux. This was another golden offering from California. He recalled a trip to taste the wonders of 'Bob Mondavi's amazing hospitality'. He invoked the Duckhorn Vineyards, bemoaned the negative effects of the film Sideways on Merlot. For this was the real stuff. We should drink more of it. Jonathan was having none of this boosterism. 'Balkan misery' he insisted. A touch of the Dolamore's (for those who remembered the now-departed wine merchant of uncertain fame that used to inhabit the bleaker stretches of Walton Street in Oxford). This was a Bulgarian Cab Sauv channelling Domaine Bougar (spelling uncertain). Separated by the river Danube from civilisation this was £6.49 worth of supposedly 'private' selection. He and Michael both found some supporters but the majority rightly went with Richard.
A number of tables did surprisingly badly but the 'Sparkling Winos' table were triumphant. On the night they scored a highly creditable 5 out of 6, missing only wine 2. The 'Bourgeois Crew' (or was it the 'Burgerous Crew'?) did almost as well with 4 out of 6. Congratulations.
We moved then to the business of fund-raising for Thinking of Oscar. All our panellists and members of the Committee had donated, as well as David Cole. His two bottles of 'Oscar Tobia Rioja' made £50 and set up the audience for a competitive and very generously supported auction. Thanks to members' generous bidding and subsequent donations to a collecting box we raised well over £1200 for the charity. David's letter of thanks is also on this site and the progress of the charity can be followed at www.thinkingofoscarcom. We wish David and Hannah well.
GH:8/2/15