NORTHERN RHÔNE RED EXTRAVAGANZA

ARNE RONOLD MW - Tuesday 7^th November

With his laconic delivery and depth and breadth of knowledge, Arne Ronold, Norway’s only MW, proved an entertainingly different presenter for the Northern Rhône tasting on November 7.

Arne began by introducing us to the history of wine growing in the area, the topography, the nature of the syrah grape and traditional and modern methods of production. With temperatures on average 2 degrees lower than in the Southern Rhône, the Northern area is a marginal climate for the syrah grape. In good years, however, the long ripening period will produce wines of great complexity and finesse. Surprisingly for such a well-known area, there are only 76,000 hectares under production, and the Northern Rhône accounts for only 3 per cent of Rhône wines. There are less than 100 top appellations and the area under production cannot be increased. To produce wines of a distinctive character in the traditional manner, the grapes are not destemmed (which adds tannins), undergo a long maceration and are kept for a period in large old oak barrels (foudres, which don’t impart oak to the wine). However since the 1980s a number of producers have destemmed, macerated for a shorter period and introduced the use of small new oak barrels to generate a more modern style with more oak flavour and tannin on the finish – in other words, have ‘bordeauxised’ the production methods. (Perhaps the curse of Parker points and the influence of the wine consultant at work here!)

Having set the scene, Arne introduced us to 8 different wines, from a variety of vintages and top appellations:

Wine number one, a 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Guiraude, from Alain Graillot, had been produced using small oak barrels, however mostly old wood was used so the overall effect was less harsh than with some of the later wines. Graillot, who has been growing and producing wines since 1985, selects the best barrels from a variety of vineyards. Arne considers Graillot to be one of the 3 best wines in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. On the nose and palate, the wine produced blackberries and pepper with some rather medicinal notes and vanilla-oak traces. With good acidity and balancing tannins, Arne considers this wine will continue to live and improve for up to another 5 years.

Wine two, a 2003 Sainte Epine, from the youthful Hervé Souhaut, was greener and more stalky on the nose and palate. Although producing within the St. Joseph appellation, Souhaut issues his wines as vins de table, following a dispute with the appellation tasting panel. Many of the vines used to produce this dark wine, redolent of blackberries, plums and leather, are over 100 years old. A difficult vintage due to the dry, warm conditions, many of the grapes suffered sun burn and with high sugar content and some residual sugar this is, by Arne’s admission, not one of Souhaut’s best. For reference he considers the 2001 vintage to be the best that Souhaut has produced so far!

Wine three was a 2001 Cornas Chaillots from Thierry Allemand. Produced using a mix of barrel sizes from old vines on small parcels of land, as well as vines grown on land previously neglected but designated for wine-growing, Allemand has produced a wine which is rich in fruit, with good acidity and sufficient tannins to allow for long ageing. Arne considers the 2001 vintage to be ‘classic but not great’.

Wine four, a 1996 Cornas from Arne’s favourite red wine producer Auguste Clape, was produced using completely traditional methods. An exceptional vintage, 1996 benefited from cool NNE winds in the three weeks ahead of harvest, producing perfect ripening conditions and an elegant wine with pure clean fruit flavours, capable of ageing for another 10 years. On the nose it was leathery, with some pepper and even black olives.

Wine five, a 2001 Côte-Rôtie from Guigal, had been produced in the ‘modern’ style using 50 per cent small new oak barrels. One of the largest producers in the area, this is Guigal’s basic wine. Full rich and sweet, with rather drying oak tannins, this more claret-like style deadens the typical fleshiness of a traditional Northern Rhône wine.

Six was a 1999 Côte-Rôtie from Domaine Jamet, made primarily in the traditional way but with a small percentage of new oak. Arne considers this to be the best vintage since 1978 and one of the best Côte-Rôtie for many years. The wine is a deep dark colour with some brown, on the nose showing some pepper, lots of ripe fruit, and even, according to Arne, some mountain grouse! On the palate, full fleshy flavours and again lots of ripe fruit. Still youthful, this wine will keep for many years.

We were fortunate to be able to taste wine seven, a 1999 Côte-Rôtie from Marius Gentaz-Dervieux, since Arne had brought it himself from a private supplier and had transported it via Austria to our tasting. Very difficult to get hold of (hence the route to the fortunate members of the OWC!) the wine was holding its colour well and just showing the first signs of ageing at the rim. On the nose, a mature old Côte-Rôtie, with lots of almost smokey animal gaminess. On the palate the wine was full, round, smooth and softer than some of the younger Côte-Rôties. Drinking well now.

The final wine of the evening, wine eight, was a 1985 Hermitage La Chapelle from Paul Jaboulet. Showing more signs of age than wine seven, this is Jaboulet’s top wine. On the nose this was a very ripe mature syrah, but without the pronounced animality of seven. In comparison, it lacked freshness and had some pronounced new oak, however on the palate it was rich and fully mature but with some additional dryness to the finish.

For all those fortunate to be present, this was an exceptional opportunity to be able to experience the best of the Northern Rhône, presented by a true enthusiast talking about one of his favourite regions.      

A review by Hilary Reid Evans